Structure vs Sharpening
I have noticed that if I push the "Structure" slider to a very high value (even 100), and the "Amount" slider of Sharpening to a very low one (say 3), I get what seems to me a very good sharpening, without haloes. Could this be used as capture sharpening? Or as a second stage of sharpening, since it can even be applied locally.
Anyone has the same experience?
What does "structure" do, anyway? 😉
Anyone has the same experience?
What does "structure" do, anyway? 😉
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"Structure" in the Clarity Tool works similar to USM with a mid radius.
Capture Sharpening typically requires a low radius, low threshold and ... typically... a not too low amount.
Personally I am finding "Structure" too coarse to work as "capture sharpening".
I feel C1's sharpening works quite good as a compromise between "Deconvultion Sharpening" (which is actually what you want when you aim at "capture sharpening") and USM. So I think you should fiddle around with sharpening rather than "Structure" ...
Personally I process my captures out of C1 without sharpening applied. I only apply sharpening to the finally resized image depending on the application. But that's a matter of personal taste and/or workflow ...0 -
Thanks! That's interesting.
It is true that sharpening with a low radius (I use 0.6-0.8 for my Ricoh FXR) seems to apply to the finest details, while "structure" addresses larger ones (but not so large as what classical "high-radius, low amount" USM does).
When you say that you "process captures out of C1 without sharpening applied", do you mean that you click the "Disable sharpening" checkbox in the output recipe?
May I ask what tool you use for the ouput sharpening then?0 -
[quote="bernardf" wrote:
yes, exactly. I do apply some sharpening for preview purposes in C1 but disable sharpening when processing.
When you say that you "process captures out of C1 without sharpening applied", do you mean that you click the "Disable sharpening" checkbox in the output recipe?May I ask what tool you use for the ouput sharpening then?
I always apply a 2 or 3 step sharpening (except for downsized images prepared for the web). The first step is mostly Focal Blade (Photoshop Plugin whith sophistcated masking capabilities to avoid halos, to exclude balcks and whites from sharpening and with the ability to set an extremely low radius). Sometimes I also use Deconvultion Sharpening in Lightroom (low radius, "Details" set to 100, moderate amount). Second stage is mostly some kind of masked highpass sharpening (in Photoshop, of course). Depending on the final print size the third stage is Focal Blade again.
Sharpening is extremly personal ... it's well worth to spend some time experimenting rather than just buying a tool. Some swear on, say, Topaz (personally I hate it). I swear on Focal Blade - but you'll find enough people who don't see any benefit using this particular tool.
C1's sharpening is really pretty good if you don't print large and when you want to apply some sharpening right in the raw processor.
Good luck!0 -
Thanks again. 0
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