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White balance with colour checker passport

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6 comments

  • Paul Steunebrink
    Have you used this method of white balancing with CC Passport on previous versions of Capture One, like v12? If so, was it different?

    WB color picking has changed in CO20. Of course, to make it better...

    That said, I would not use WB picker on a white surface, mid-grey tones should work better.
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  • ---
    fumare wrote:
    Hi:)
    Just installed C20 and find big issue with WB. For first white square I am getting extremely green image, second patch gave me yellowish/green. Third is giving me still to yellow. Passport is quite new. I shoot with different lenses - same issue. Newer have this problem. Any idea what is wrong?:)
    Thank you
    Jacek


    WB with c1 has all kind of issues. with c20 they have increased the pixel sample but it is still not working like adobe software, especially with noisy images it is still unusable. better way to set WB is to increase saturation to 100% than try to make the image visually as neutral as possible than reset saturation back to zero.

    ...and setting WB on mid grey tones is absolute BS advice !! light grey 2. CC patch or the colour checker passport WB target works much better. but make sure your channels are not overexposed and clipped.
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  • Keith Reeder
    Horseoncowboy wrote:
    especially with noisy images it is still unusable.

    Sigh...

    No, it is not unusable.

    ...and setting WB on mid grey tones is absolute BS advice !!

    So that'll be why we can buy "middle grey" cards specifically to set white balance with, eh?

    https://www.pixelz.com/blog/need-accurate-color-let-grey-cards-white-balancing-come-rescue/

    I'd ask for your money back from that charm school course you attended, if I were you...
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  • Marco Hyman
    Keith Reeder wrote:

    So that'll be why we can buy "middle grey" cards specifically to set white balance with, eh?


    Pedantic nit: "middle grey" (18%) cards may or may not be suitable for white balance in that not all grey cards are color neutral. They were primarily intended to set exposure. Some work quite well for both purposes, others impart a slight color cast.

    The white balance target on a Color Passport or something like the WhiBal card may be a better choice for setting white balance.
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  • ---
    Keith Reeder wrote:
    Horseoncowboy wrote:
    especially with noisy images it is still unusable.

    Sigh...

    No, it is not unusable.

    ...and setting WB on mid grey tones is absolute BS advice !!

    So that'll be why we can buy "middle grey" cards specifically to set white balance with, eh?

    https://www.pixelz.com/blog/need-accurate-color-let-grey-cards-white-balancing-come-rescue/

    I'd ask for your money back from that charm school course you attended, if I were you...



    why argue against something which is so easy to proof ? it only takes you to shoot a color checker at high iso... small changes of the area you click to set WB gives very different color casts but maybe you think this is how it should work ? the more noise the more unreliable WB becomes this is also one of the reasons to favour lighter grey tones over middle grey.

    when someone who owns a colorchecker passport which comes with an WB target formulated to be spectral flat and perfect for WB and he gets advise to use grey patches instead than charm is really not needed 😉

    the internet is full of misleading advise today so of course you will find "experts" recommending grey cards or the CC grey patches which are not spectral neutral but this does not make it I good choice and technically the best, fact based way to do it. and btw why do you think it is called white balance and not grey balance ?


    c1 does allow user to set WB in areas which have blown out channels with fatal results, adobe software gives you a warning in this case. so maybe this is also a reason for the WB problems but I always assume photographer know to set correct exposure...
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  • ---
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5AaycyYHk-Y&feature=youtu.be ...or why c1 WB sucks 😉
    ( the image was shot with a 5000 K studio flash system @ iso. 100 )

    for many user an absolute correct WB is for sure not need but when you do art reproduction like in this case or still life work it becomes an issue because the reason you use manual WB in combination with a CC is to get constant results. the little demo video is self explaining I guess and it shows why correct WB is not so easy to get with C1 as some might think.
    adobe and affinity offer a solution for this problem you can sample a larger area for more consistent results.
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