Copy art with C1 12
Hi ,
I have been trying to do some copy art for a client that uses gold paint and a lot of green in many shades on here painting.
I can never seem to reproduce the original very closely. I use studio strobes with 7 inch reflectors and due polarized lights.
I use a Digital SG color checker and patch F5 set to 197 as I have been reading.
My questions is: 1. Should I be using led lighting or some sort of bounce lighting with type of painting style?
2. Not sure if using the LCC is helping a I always meter 5 points of the art work. I get the f5 patch to 197 and then shoot the gray paper but not sure if the paper should have the same value? Is there a good video online that explains it use?
Also I do calibrate my monitor with I One display pro and was looking at the new I One studio.
I'm using a Phase one 40+ back on a phase one DF body and a 80 mm lens for her pieces they are 36x36 most of the time.
I'm on a mac pro running sierra.
Any help would be grate, Thanks
I have been trying to do some copy art for a client that uses gold paint and a lot of green in many shades on here painting.
I can never seem to reproduce the original very closely. I use studio strobes with 7 inch reflectors and due polarized lights.
I use a Digital SG color checker and patch F5 set to 197 as I have been reading.
My questions is: 1. Should I be using led lighting or some sort of bounce lighting with type of painting style?
2. Not sure if using the LCC is helping a I always meter 5 points of the art work. I get the f5 patch to 197 and then shoot the gray paper but not sure if the paper should have the same value? Is there a good video online that explains it use?
Also I do calibrate my monitor with I One display pro and was looking at the new I One studio.
I'm using a Phase one 40+ back on a phase one DF body and a 80 mm lens for her pieces they are 36x36 most of the time.
I'm on a mac pro running sierra.
Any help would be grate, Thanks
0
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Gold paint if metallic (shiny) will not render correctly with full polarisation on lights and lens, back of polarisation until the gold looks acceptable under your modelling light, about half polarised might work.
Alternatively shoot a polarised and non polarised version without moving camera or artwork and use the two images to make a composite in photoshop or similar (I use affinity). Layer the images with polarised on top then gradually erase the metallic gold area until it looks like gold. Polarisation for me always shifts white balance to a higher kelvin value.
Do you have a wide gamut display? if not some greens may not be displaying correctly (on a normal Srgb display for example.
Similarly if viewing thru an Srgb profile (under view menu item) your greens may be getting compressed into a smaller set of values, especially any intense light colours.
I use small soft boxes with polarizing gel and circulation polariser on lens, the advantage of the soft boxes is the gel is far enough away from the modelling lamp not to burn thru so I can preview the polarisation. Disadvantage = big expensive sheets of polarising gel.
is your Mac a MacBook Pro? or a Mac Pro with separate screen? either way find out what gamut your dealing with if it can output Srgb, dci-p3 or Adobe RGB.
Hope some of this is useful. Best of luck0 -
Thanks so much for the help. I have a mac pro with dual 23 inch apple cinema displays. I view RGB. The the greens are hard to balance also. I will try the large soft boxes with the polarized lighting. I will also try the capturing with out and merging the 2 images.
Have you profiled your camera with the new xrite software and do you thing that will help.
Thanks
Martin0
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