do i have problem with prosses?


1 comment

  • damienlovegrove
    Hi Isa,

    Let me suggest a working method that is proven. Other methods also work but as you said, yours doesn't.

    Capture your images using the P20 profile selected in C1. Adjust your images for overall colour and tonality in C1. Process your images using Adobe 1998 (RGB) in 16 bit. In Photoshop, adjust your images for SELECTIVE tonal and colour as required. Flatten and convert to 8bit tif, still in Adobe RGB. Make any cloning or healing adjustments in 8 bit and save. Then resize for output at 100 px/cm or 254 px/inch and save as flat 8bit Adobe RGB and send to lab.

    Choose Adobe 1998 as your working RGB colour space in Photoshop.

    Your screen is an RGB device and must be 'hardware' calibrated. (Most Pro labs have a spider or Eye One you can borrow for a day).

    Photoshop will know what gamma setting you chose when you calibrated your screen. Most web designers use 2.2 (television monitor standard that still lingers from when pc's used television screens). Most print designers, magazines and publishing houses use 1.8 (from when dedicated computer screens were introduced for desk top publishing this gamma gave the closest match to CMYK magazine output. 1.8 gamma is still often called Macintosh standard). The choice is yours, your images will look the same on screen and in print whatever setting you choose.

    Only use CMYK as an output space for images going to an offset process. If you do not have a specific CMYK profile for the device let the printer convert the Adobe RGB to CMYK for you. Using a generic CMYK profile is not often recomended.

    The Photographic industry has universally adopted RGB as a means of sharing images with sRGB for web and non printed output and Adobe 1998 for printed output. Each print output device has it's own characteristics and these can be accounted for in profile conversion. This is the realm of the specialist lab machine operator who lives and breathes colour management and image fidelity. Their role is to make prints that match as closely as posible the intended look as you see on your screen. If your screen is calibrated the process should be straight forward. In some situations 'relative colourmetric' should be used to convert from RGB to CMYK but not all. The printer will know from experience what works best.

    I hope this helps.

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