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Fixing water surface colour

thejoolek
Hi professionals...

I am new in this business and testing PhaseONE vs Lightroom.
I have massive number aerial pictures taken over the sea... I know water colour was blue ish but my images are all... as per image...
http://s9.postimg.org/ey4fl920r/2015_11_28_223917.jpg
Please - would it be possible for some advice how to fix them/make them looking more sea colour...
Thank you
Joolek


P.S. For anyone who would like to edit this file first - please check my dropbox

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/936 ... 111330.jpg
or
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/936 ... 103058.jpg
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  • Ian Wilson
    Moderator
    Top Commenter
    Did you actually shoot this as a JPG, or a raw file?

    If a raw file, I would say that the first thing to do is to adjust the white balance. Where the scene is predominantly blue, as I presume the sea in your image would have been, it is possible that auto white balance on the camera would be fooled, and it would set a kelvin value too high (more suited to shade than sunlight) which you could correct by dragging the kelvin value in the WB tool down to a lower value.

    Ian
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  • Ian Wilson
    Moderator
    Top Commenter
    Even if they are just JPGs there is stuff you can do.

    Here is a quick example, and here is what I did (just a rough quick go at it).

    (1) dragged the exposure a long way up - it was very dark.

    (2) in white balance, dragged kelvin quite a long way to the left, and tint quite a long way to the right. (NB: the other picture was rather a different colour again and needed different values, so I am not sure that a batch approach will work).

    (3) In the curves tool selected the red channel and dragged the middle of the red curve down towards the bottom right hand corner.

    Depending on what colour of blue the sea is meant to be you could also adjust the curves in the other channels. If I also then drag the blue curve up and to the left (a little) I get a blue that is a bit more "blue" and less "greeny-blue" but which was more like the real colour of the sea on the day only you can say. You would have a lot more chance of rescuing raw files and getting a good result than you would with JPGs, though.

    Ian

    https://farm1.staticflickr.com/750/23392430105_752904a56a_n.jpg
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  • thejoolek
    This is amazing what you have achieved! Unfortunately no access to RAW files.

    Re Second file - what settings you would suggest over there... it's the other image with pure water surface something I have a lot and no solutions for now.

    Massive thank you
    J
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  • Ian Wilson
    Moderator
    Top Commenter
    The colour in the other one is a bit different - very purple looking. Just having a very quick go at it, I thought it best to (1) increase exposure first, as before (2) on the WB I dragged both Kelvin and tint to the left almost as far as they would go. (3) in curves, drag the red down and the the right, the blue up and to the left, and the green also up to the left (but only a little). It seemed harder to me to get a convincing blue with that one. Maybe more of an S-curve on the red, rather than just down and to the right, and reduce overall saturation too?

    Ian

    EDIT: what camera were these from?
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  • thejoolek
    Hi Ian and thank you a lot for all your inputs.
    These pictures were captured using Leica RCD30.
    J
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  • SFA
    Hmm.

    http://w3.impa.br/~tpereira/rgbneditor/


    Interesting by the looks of it but perhaps not something that can be successfully understood in this forum?



    Grant
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  • thejoolek
    Hi,

    Me once again and once again thanks for all your input.
    This software is really scary.. I mean... subject to skills.. outputs are endless..

    If you don't mind on this Sunday evening...

    http://s28.postimg.org/gxc663a2x/TEST2.jpg

    This is the mosaic crated based on several individual images. Software picks "best" images, choose "best" overlap and stitch them all together.

    As you can see combination of sun angle causing that odd effect/seam lines.
    One solution would be correct individual images, and more/less stitch them manually to minimise sung glint effect over the water.. but if they are already done and no way back... How would you minimise/hide those errors/seam-lines

    If needed file also available here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93672137/TEST.jpg

    Thank you
    J
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  • SFA
    thejoolek wrote:
    How would you minimise/hide those errors/seam-lines



    I would look for an application that specializes in image file stitching and making the stitched images balanced at the joins.

    There are a number available with varying degrees of sophistication and complexity.

    Image stitching is not a wheel that needs to be re-invented using less than suitable tools.


    HTH.



    Grant
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  • Permanently deleted user
    A belated input:

    I have a couple of ponds near me. The light on the water surface varies enormously. Still, windless conditions - no problem, good reflections and a good depth of water colour tones.

    But a slight breeze creates havoc. The surface is speckled with specular highlights (even with a polariser in place) that are overexposed even when the rest of the image is underexposed (Canon 5D2). And the water colour tones lack depth. The most satisfactory "fix" I have found (on the computer) is to zoom in on a few speckles and use the PS "Replace Colour" tool to tone all the specular highlights down. I find this reduces the dazzle effect and allows the eyes to see more clearly the colour that was always there but weakened by the bright dazzle.

    I hope this contribution is of some interest.

    Peter
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