How to do Lens Cast Correction (LCC) with flash?
I am familiar with taking LCC shots when using wide-angle shots on my technical camera when shooting in ambient light but what is the best practice for doing LCC shots when using flash and I don't have the option of increasing the flash output to get a good exposure?
In case it is relevant, I am using a Linhof Techno with a RS 40mm lens and an IQ180 sensor back. Ambient light shots usually require a LCC with this combination.
Should I:
A. Take a LCC shot in daylight with the same tilts, shifts and focus point;
B. Increase the ISO, probably to 3200, to get a LCC without flash at the time;
C. Not use a technical camera with wide-angle lenses and flash;
D. Fire a flash, possibly not directly, that is, the flash is bounced off an umbrella/reflector, towards the lens to get a well-exposed LCC shot at the time;
E. Do something else, such as ???
On reflection, I think I should try D and just turn around an umbrella flash unit and rotate the camera so the flash lights the front of the lens. I may have to turn the flash output down to get a good exposure.
What do you think?
Roger
In case it is relevant, I am using a Linhof Techno with a RS 40mm lens and an IQ180 sensor back. Ambient light shots usually require a LCC with this combination.
Should I:
A. Take a LCC shot in daylight with the same tilts, shifts and focus point;
B. Increase the ISO, probably to 3200, to get a LCC without flash at the time;
C. Not use a technical camera with wide-angle lenses and flash;
D. Fire a flash, possibly not directly, that is, the flash is bounced off an umbrella/reflector, towards the lens to get a well-exposed LCC shot at the time;
E. Do something else, such as ???
On reflection, I think I should try D and just turn around an umbrella flash unit and rotate the camera so the flash lights the front of the lens. I may have to turn the flash output down to get a good exposure.
What do you think?
Roger
0
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E 😉
Just put the plate in front of your lens, no change in orientation required. Usually you would have to turn the flash up 2 stops or more, depending on how bright your surroundings are (how much get's reflected).0 -
Thank you, Christian, but, as I said in my original post, I do not have the option of increasing the flash output.
I have enough flash power to shoot at f11. If I had to retain power for a LCC shot, I would be forced to shoot the subject (machinery, in this case) at f5.6, Which does not give enough depth of field.
Any other ideas?
RogerChristian Gruner wrote:
E 😉
Just put the plate in front of your lens, no change in orientation required. Usually you would have to turn the flash up 2 stops or more, depending on how bright your surroundings are (how much get's reflected).0 -
A. Take a LCC shot in daylight with the same tilts, shifts and focus point;
Lens cast is affected by the relationship between the lens and sensor planes; lighting conditions (strobe v. ambient) has no affect on LCC.0 -
ben_US wrote:
A. Take a LCC shot in daylight with the same tilts, shifts and focus point;
Lens cast is affected by the relationship between the lens and sensor planes; lighting conditions (strobe v. ambient) has no affect on LCC.
Actually, it has. While you're working with HS flash (Hi Sync & HyperSync, NOT HSS) you always get a little bit of a gradient on shorter shutter speeds (above X-Sync). LCC corrects that perfectly. 😃0 -
HansVanEijsden wrote:
ben_US wrote:
A. Take a LCC shot in daylight with the same tilts, shifts and focus point;
Lens cast is affected by the relationship between the lens and sensor planes; lighting conditions (strobe v. ambient) has no affect on LCC.
Actually, it has. While you're working with HS flash (Hi Sync & HyperSync, NOT HSS) you always get a little bit of a gradient on shorter shutter speeds (above X-Sync). LCC corrects that perfectly. 😃
This would, in essence, correct for the uneven lighting of the scene caused by the flash timing. It shouldn't be perfect, but if it works for you then by all means 😊0
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