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Importing RAWs results in green photos

NN635217262769005787UL
Hello

When I try to import RAW images from either my Nikon or Sony camera the photos are all messed up and green. other formats like jpeg or PNG are perfectly fine. its like its not reading the RAWs correctly or something to do with the color profile? I'm just not sure. I can't figure it out.


Here is an example of what I mean.

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5001/d0j0.jpg


Thanks
Jim
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27件のコメント

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  • RobiWan
    Hi,

    I'm not sure but I think you are sharpness mask active.
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  • Permanently deleted user
    RobiWan is right, you have turned focus mask on. Please find this topic from the Image Quality Professors Blog which explains how this tool is working and also how it can be switched on/off: http://blog.phaseone.com/find-the-best- ... n-no-time/

    Regards,
    Joerg
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  • Keith Reeder
    [quote="RobiWan" wrote:
    Hi,

    I'm not sure but I think you are sharpness mask active.

    If it is that, it's not working: how can that much of the image be in focus at f/4 a few feet from the subject?
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  • sizzlingbadger
    a lot can be in focus at f4 when the focal length is 18mm.
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  • SFA
    [quote="Keith Reeder" wrote:
    [quote="RobiWan" wrote:
    Hi,

    I'm not sure but I think you are sharpness mask active.

    If it is that, it's not working: how can that much of the image be in focus at f/4 a few feet from the subject?


    But how do you begin to assess what is and is not 'in focus' based on the data in the file?


    Grant
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  • sizzlingbadger
    edge contrast, its the same way contrast focusing works in many digital cameras.
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  • SFA
    [quote="sizzlingbadger" wrote:
    edge contrast, its the same way contrast focusing works in many digital cameras.


    Quite. So anything that 'looks like' an edge to the analytic algorithm. Which could be anywhere on the image.

    IMO the tool needs careful understanding and cautious use. Forget the whole image, just check what the tool tells you for the area that you expect to be sharp.

    Unless I have missed something it seems to be a tool that may be useful in very specific situations.

    Still, that's taking things somewhat beyond the apparent information needs of the OP! 😉


    Grant
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  • Keith Reeder
    [quote="sizzlingbadger" wrote:
    edge contrast, its the same way contrast focusing works in many digital cameras.


    And in that image whole swathes with zero "edge contrast" are lit up green like we're looking through a night vision visor.

    I'll say it again. It's not working,
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  • SFA
    I suspect that you might be right Keith.

    Either that or it is really for use in very specific circumstances. I thought I remember watching a tutorial video about it once but I can't recall which one and a search does not seem to help.


    It has never been considered for a part in my work flow.


    Grant
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  • Drew Altdo
    Higher resolution files will utilize this tool much better as there is a clear difference between pixel contrast.
    There are tolerances you can set in preferences to fine tune this for your image/camera.

    If you find a specific file that you feel does not work at all you are welcome to provide it to us in a Support Case for further investigation.
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  • SFA
    Hi Drew,

    I take your point and I think it may well be a useful tool for assessing fine resolution differences and ultimate sharpness around the expected area of sharpness.

    However as I quickly grabbed a session to play with earlier today I ended up with some Canon RAW files from a point and shoot (S90) that were certainly nothing more than snapshots taken at a wedding a couple of weeks ago.

    It was an average winter middle of the day for some outside shots with lots of dark green conifer foliage and masses green mask almost no matter what settings were used (other than making the opacity almost nothing!).

    Brighter (and Red) parts of the images were less masked.

    Later there are some VERY under exposed and grainy interior shots. Just grabs and nothing decent expected or achieved. Some taken at a distance too great for any useful flash effect. Again all covered with green mask even though there is really nothing of an edge anywhere (except, maybe, the grain noise.)

    Then, suddenly, on consecutive shots which are very similar and more or less the same settings as far as I can see from the EXIF data, the situation reverses. I thought for some reason it had failed to mask anything but no, there is some masking though not anywhere that I would expect or that would appear to be useful. And the next several shots, all just as poor to the eye as those earlier in the set, look much the same. A few almost hidden areas of green mask and the rest left to nothing as one might expect.

    I'll dig deeper and try and find some better files showing similar traits. (The S90 is a handy pocket camera given enough light to use but in less than good conditions I don't expect it to produce anything that I would want to use to 'test' software performance or functionality.)

    Meanwhile if, as I seem to remember, there is a tutorial that cover or mentions the Focus Mask I would really like to revisit it in order to make sure that what I am checking has some relevance. So if anyone remembers one or a section in one leaving a link or a note of where it is would be very much welcomed.



    Grant
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  • Permanently deleted user
    I watched everything I found on the subject ! and still not understood ☹️

    http://help.phaseone.com/fr-fr/CO7/Edit ... ening.aspx
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  • SFA
    [quote="AAlain" wrote:
    I watched everything I found on the subject ! and still not understood ☹️

    http://help.phaseone.com/fr-fr/CO7/Edit ... ening.aspx


    That's the one! Thanks you AAlain.

    I understand the Focus Tool and the Loupe but the Focus mask leaves me with more questions than answers. Which was why my earlier post suggested that it probably had a particular use in certain circumstances.

    Drew - could this be an interesting subject for a blog post by the Professor?

    Grant
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  • Keith Reeder
    [quote="SFA" wrote:
    I suspect that you might be right Keith.

    I've used various bits of software with focus mask technology (Raw Therapee has it too) and I've yet to see it agree with what I see to be sharp in the image: and in the picture posted by the OP, if Capture One's Focus Mask is supposed to be telling us anything useful, I'm damned if I can see what it is.

    Then again, I don't consider this, from the tutorial, to be remotely helpful "information" either.

    That's if the Focus Mask tool is the OP's problem, of course - I still have my doubts. It'd be nice if Jim could come back and confirm...
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  • SFA
    [quote="Keith Reeder" wrote:


    That's if the Focus Mask tool is the OP's problem, of course - I still have my doubts. It'd be nice if Jim could come back and confirm...


    Well, the sample looks exactly like most, but certainly not all, of the images I shot on the fly with the S90 if I turn on the Focus Mask so I would guess it is the same issue. I can't think what else it might be to give the same effect - other than a problem with the routine that is called doing something entirely unconnected with FM functionality.


    Grant
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  • NN635217262769005787UL
    Hi,

    Sorry I haven't replied......


    I was actually asking this question for a friend of mine whos not the best behind a computer. I didn't get a chance to tell my friend about this solution until today. Once I get his response whether this worked or not, I'll let you all know.

    I do know the night before this started happening it was working fine for him, so it makes sense to me that perhaps he activated it by mistake, maybe even using the keyboard command


    Jim
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  • mli20
    Have any of you played a bit with the Focus Threshold setting in Preferences? If not you really ought to.

    Cheers,
    Mogens
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  • SFA
    [quote="mli20" wrote:
    Have any of you played a bit with the Focus Threshold setting in Preferences? If not you really ought to.

    Cheers,
    Mogens


    Mogens,

    Yes. You are right, it can make a difference although even reducing the coverage does not always, or even often, seem to leave just relevant parts of the image showing the mask.

    However on the file I was experimenting with - the ones that looked very similar to the example posted above- the difference between all and nothing was very small indeed. A few edges receded (or grew) a tiny amount and that was about it.

    It's a very baffling tool though C1 seems no different in that respect than other applications with similar features.

    I mention this as an observation. I don't think I have any special use for the Focus Mask in anything I have done so far so it doesn't worry me that it seems strange.

    However there is the possibility that I am missing something very useful about the functionality so I really would like to understand what it is intended to do and what it actually does. Then I can decide whether it may have more importance for me.


    Grant
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  • Permanently deleted user
    Yes. You are right, it can make a difference although even reducing the coverage does not always, or even often, seem to leave just relevant parts of the image showing the mask.

    However on the file I was experimenting with - the ones that looked very similar to the example posted above- the difference between all and nothing was very small indeed. A few edges receded (or grew) a tiny amount and that was about it.

    It's a very baffling tool though C1 seems no different in that respect than other applications with similar features.

    I mention this as an observation. I don't think I have any special use for the Focus Mask in anything I have done so far so it doesn't worry me that it seems strange.

    However there is the possibility that I am missing something very useful about the functionality so I really would like to understand what it is intended to do and what it actually does. Then I can decide whether it may have more importance for me.


    +1 😉
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  • mli20
    I'll have to admit that I'm not using this particular tool much myself.This, however, may have to do with the kind of photography I do. I may take several hundred photos during a day, but typically they will be very dissimilar. If I was shooting mostly similar images during the day, like in a studio session, I guess the Focus tool might be much more useful, pointing out the differences in focus accuracy between otherwise similar images.

    In the end it's about getting to know our toools well, not least their limitations.

    Cheers,
    Mogens
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  • Keith Reeder
    [quote="SFA" wrote:
    However there is the possibility that I am missing something very useful about the functionality so I really would like to understand what it is intended to do and what it actually does.


    Honestly Grant, I doubt there's a snowball's chance in hell that a software algorithm can do a better job than your own eyes, of telling you what's sharp and what's not in your images.

    It's just a gimmick as far as I'm concerned.

    Here is one of many write-ups on "focus peaking" (as it's also known): very clever an' all, but look at the examples - do you need software to tell you what's sharp in any of them?

    I can see some case for it on a camera, if you're into chimping (or manual focusing I guess) - let's face it, camera LCDs aren't ideal for critical sharpness judgement - and I could put this on my Canon cameras courtesy of Magic Lantern: but why would I? I've got a great big, high quality monitor at home which is still going to be much better than software at showing me what's sharp and what's not...
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  • NN635217262769005787UL
    Sorry for the delay....

    I finally talked to my friend, he said this fixed his problem..... he did have "show focus mask" selected.

    As far as the image being focused, it wasn't. He said it was actually a bit out of focused and soft. i kind of found it surprising also that the whole image was green because I'm familiar with how my friend shoots and his pictures are rarely well focused well.

    Anyway thanks again for the help


    Jim
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  • Keith Reeder
    Heh!

    So the Focus Mask reckons that a soft/OOF image is sharp everywhere?

    That's a really helpful tool!

    😉

    Thanks for the update, Jim
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  • Christian Gruner
    The focus tool works on micro contrast, so that also means that noise will affect the mask.

    As has already been mentioned in this thread, different cameras have different thresholds for this tool. Adjusting this can greatly affect the precision of the tool (in both directions).

    If you find any problems with the tool that isn't solved by adjusting the threshold (and the pictures aren't shot at high iso), please report them to our Support team right away. That way they will get properly logged.
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  • SFA
    [quote="Christian Gr" wrote:
    The focus tool works on micro contrast, so that also means that noise will affect the mask.

    As has already been mentioned in this thread, different cameras have different thresholds for this tool. Adjusting this can greatly affect the precision of the tool (in both directions).

    If you find any problems with the tool that isn't solved by adjusting the threshold (and the pictures aren't shot at high iso), please report them to our Support team right away. That way they will get properly logged.


    Thanks Christian.

    That is what I was hinting at in an earlier post - the tool is really mostly of value for quality low noise files from a well controlled environment.

    Outside that context the results may not be useful. Indeed the check may not be worth considering since it will be obvious that other factors (like noise) are likely to be in play.

    However when I looked at some of my recent shots that understanding seemed a little shaken because I can see consecutive images all of which are relatively noisy fairly high ISO and weak flash combinations where the tool suddenly changes from almost entirely green mask right across the frame to virtually no green mask anywhere. That made me question whether I had any idea about what was going on in those shots. I'll have another look at them to see if I can work it out to my better satisfaction and understanding.



    Grant
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  • Permanently deleted user
    I use the focus mask a lot during my studio shootings because it gives me a quick impression of the accurate focus of my images. In studio project I just work tethered, usually with ISO 100 and want to have the sharpness peak on the eyes of the models. With activated focus mask I can have a look on my notebook without having to zoom to 100% and get a quick impresssion of the accurateness. For me it works just fine and helps me a lot to work faster.
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  • NNN635234536567549613
    you must have a mask activated.
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