confused about using white balance tools
I have several photos taken inside a well-lit church. Due to whatever lights they use, the photos are rather yellow. I tried "auto white balance" on them but that didn't really fix the problem, altough it helped a little. So then I tried playing with the color temp and tint sliders and couldn't seem to get anywhere close to the colors I wanted; they just exaggerated the problem.
The church as a statue wearing a white dress and an altar covered by a white tablecloth. I tried using the white balance eyedropper to select a portion of the dress or a portion of the tablecloth and that helps but I still don't think the colors look as natural as I'd like. Is there another approach to doing this that works better?
Also, I tweaked the white balance of a jpg image from the church until I finally got the colors looking pretty good then copied the white balance from the jpg to the associate raw file taken at the same time. That did not work well. The raw file got much yellower! Shouldn't the color balance from the corrected jpg and applied to the raw file give me the same end result for both the jpg and the raw file? If not, could you explain why?
BTW, I'm using C1 v11.
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Hi Timothy,
RAW files contain all the information about color captured by the sensor. Meanwhile, the JPEG files embed less information as some data is discarded according to the white balance setting used on the camera.
With RAW files, you can make more alterations to the White Balance settings in Capture One by setting the actual values the same way as in the camera, while you can only alter the relative values with JPEGs.
Thus, the WB settings from the JPEG will results in a slightly different effect when applied to the RAW file.
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It is hard with unusual light sources. And in some instances in that kind of setting there might be mixed light sources too - for instance artificial light and daylight coming through clear or coloured windows. Sometimes clicking on a white object works to set a rough white balance, but if it is quite brightly lit it doesn't always work, perhaps because one of the colour channels is clipped. Clicking on something that should be grey may work better. With odd lighting I sometimes click around different parts of the image on things that might be neutral to see whether any of them gives me the kind of result I am looking for.
Also, you could try some of the white balance presets - for example what does it look like if you try a fluorescent preset?
Or you could think about the kind of lighting - artificial lights sources, tungsten ones in particular, may need quite a low Kelvin value. You could try reducing the Kelvin value to may 3000 or 4000 then playing with the tint slider.
Do you fancy sharing a raw file so that we can have a look?
Ian
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Many years ago I was using a mast based camera system that would only fully support certain cameras and the ones I had available were primarily jpg - unless I was prepared to spend a lot of time in post processing working against deadlines.
The building was an old manufacturing structure with very high roof and Mercury Vapour lighting well above the floor offering a wide but not photographically bright light. It produced a sort of yellow/orange light and had a very strange output imbalance at certain frequencies
Exhibitors sometimes had their own bright lights of unknown colour spectrum.
Some areas contained sunlit side light through dirty windows.
It was extremely difficult to get the images close to anything like a good colour representation. In fact is some cases I would say it was impossible.
An old church with high ceilings might be using some form of lighting that is equally difficult to deal with - impossible, probably, if they still have anything like Mercury Vapour lamps which were often used in such situations as I understand things.
However with a RAW file and selective White Balance adjustments using layers it may be possible to make something reasonably representative of the subject.
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