Canon 5D White Balance / sharpenning
Hi there
I'm using Capture One 3.7.7 (LE) to process my 5D raw files.
I had been using Raw for long with 10D, 1DMarkII and 5D.
While I'm very happy with the result on the 1DMark II files, I'm quite disappointed with the 5D ones. The quality I get is far better using DPP. But I wonder why and hope someone could share their settings with me.
The first problems is WB. All my dailight pics - when processed in C1 - have a yellow cast, and the sky is never the right blue. It's too cyan (due to the yellow shift probably).
I noticed that if I select dailight preset in C1, on a 5D pic, it comes with 5200Kelvin and a Tint of -2 (therefore in the green), while on a 1D Mark II it selects a 5250K tint 0, while a 10D pic is 5000K Tint -2. Why is dailight having a different definition per camera? I miss something.
Anyway,to solve my 5D problem, I try to use the Color balance correction wheel, to shift a bit towards blue. It helps, but it's far from being perfect.
For information, I'm using Neutral / Faithful on the camera, and tried both AdobeRGB (my default) and sRGB on the camera. Although I don't think it affect in anyway the RAW file. (But still, when using AdobeRGB Capture One says to the pics that they are "uncalibrated")
I tried also to use the WB Shift on the 5D (going to B6). It helps also, but of course when I process the pic in DPP, it's then not at all natural. Therefore I expect an issue in the profile of the 5D.
My second question goes to 5D owners: which sharpenning settings are you typically using when trying to get a correctly sharpened picture out of C1 without any other post process?
Sorry for this long post!
Alain
I'm using Capture One 3.7.7 (LE) to process my 5D raw files.
I had been using Raw for long with 10D, 1DMarkII and 5D.
While I'm very happy with the result on the 1DMark II files, I'm quite disappointed with the 5D ones. The quality I get is far better using DPP. But I wonder why and hope someone could share their settings with me.
The first problems is WB. All my dailight pics - when processed in C1 - have a yellow cast, and the sky is never the right blue. It's too cyan (due to the yellow shift probably).
I noticed that if I select dailight preset in C1, on a 5D pic, it comes with 5200Kelvin and a Tint of -2 (therefore in the green), while on a 1D Mark II it selects a 5250K tint 0, while a 10D pic is 5000K Tint -2. Why is dailight having a different definition per camera? I miss something.
Anyway,to solve my 5D problem, I try to use the Color balance correction wheel, to shift a bit towards blue. It helps, but it's far from being perfect.
For information, I'm using Neutral / Faithful on the camera, and tried both AdobeRGB (my default) and sRGB on the camera. Although I don't think it affect in anyway the RAW file. (But still, when using AdobeRGB Capture One says to the pics that they are "uncalibrated")
I tried also to use the WB Shift on the 5D (going to B6). It helps also, but of course when I process the pic in DPP, it's then not at all natural. Therefore I expect an issue in the profile of the 5D.
My second question goes to 5D owners: which sharpenning settings are you typically using when trying to get a correctly sharpened picture out of C1 without any other post process?
Sorry for this long post!
Alain
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You are correct that none of the color, style, sharpening, etc. settings selected in the camera are not applied to the raw data. But they are noted in the EXIF information.
Canon does also include in the EXIF what the white balance should be for each of the in-camera presets. I'm not sure if Capture One uses these values, or has their own for each camera.
Again sRGB vs. AdobeRGB only changes a tag in the file, not the raw data. The official EXIF specs only define two values for the ColorSpace tag. 0, meaning sRGB, and 65535 for Uncalibrated. Some camera makers (Canon included, on their older models) started using '1' to mean AdobeRGB. But that was never part of the official spec. Canon has changed with their newer bodies to use only 0 or 65535.
Sorry that I'm no actual help, but I thought I could provide a little information to help you understand what you are seeing.
Though, I have a little suggestion. I've never relied upon the built-in white balance settings. While I will pick the one closest to my shooting conditions (just to make the previews look good), I always shoot a white card or use an Expodisc. Something to get a reference white under the current lighting conditions. I get much better results using the color picker on that white reference and then applying those values to all the other shots from the same light.0
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