Tool recommendation: Selecting overexposed areas
As far as I know, there is no way to select the overexposed areas, give them a feather radius and do some exposure adjustments afterwards. It's a bit annoying to select the skies, with overlapping sticks and leaves with the adjustment brush all the time. Any chance for a tool like this in the future?
0
-
Local adjustments,draw mask ,then adjust exposure? 0 -
Hell... have you read what I just written? 😊)
When you press CTRL+E. It shows the overexposed areas with brig red spots. Now, if you do it manually, you have to draw the overexposed areas by yourself, changing brush sizes a thousand times... and whern a tree with thousand leaves cover the sky, then you are properly fckd... So what I suggest is an option to draw a mask automatically using the overexposed areas, with a custom feather radius.
Example image:
http://i.imgur.com/p03BhHk.jpg
Of course I can lower the whole image's exposure by 2 stops, then bring back the darkened areas with shadow, but most of the time the image gets washed out or the dynamic range difference is too big and this cannot be done.0 -
Or you could learn to use your camera to expose for highlights-back at you pal 🙄 0 -
I'm using one of the cheaper Wacom Bamboo tablets for this.
Brush size depending on pen pressure works a treat.
I paid less than $60 for the tablet. This you can go about today, no need to wait for pie in the sky. I consider it an indispensable tool.
Cheers,
Mogens0 -
[quote="TimB64" wrote:
Or you could learn to use your camera to expose for highlights-back at you pal 🙄
Sure, but recovering from shadows, with high iso is problematic with Canons. :O0 -
You can take a look at this blog
http://blog.phaseone.com/take-full-cont ... ilm-curve/
There used to be an older blog called the Secret HDR Tool, which showed how to use the LCC tool to do a kind of tone mapping. Worked great in CO6 and even better in CO7. Maybe it can reappear? (I will drop Phase One a line on this).0 -
[quote="NNN634960502128021550" wrote:
[quote="TimB64" wrote:
Or you could learn to use your camera to expose for highlights-back at you pal 🙄
Sure, but recovering from shadows, with high iso is problematic with Canons. :O
Should have bought a Pentax 😂0 -
It is often just as fast to use the Topaz ReMask plug in with PS or PSE. And this will probably be better than what CO could provide for quite a long while. 0 -
[quote="Jim MSP" wrote:
It is often just as fast to use the Topaz ReMask plug in with PS or PSE. And this will probably be better than what CO could provide for quite a long while.
Hm, didn't know about that plugin. It looks a-ok, but I'd like to see this feature in C1 😊. Thank god I don't have to touch PS in my images.0 -
[quote="NNN634960502128021550" wrote:
[quote="TimB64" wrote:
Or you could learn to use your camera to expose for highlights-back at you pal 🙄
Sure, but recovering from shadows, with high iso is problematic with Canons. :O
Which Canons?
My G11 can be a challenge as I would expect. But a 1D3, with a half decent exposure start point, has a lot of potential even at ISO3200 so long as I'm not trying to capture a black cat in a dark room.
I seem to recall that the NR in C1 is adjusted individually to the camera model as a starting point. Can anyone confirm that or have I mis-remembered something?
Grant Perkins0 -
[quote="NNN634960502128021550" wrote:
[quote="Jim MSP" wrote:
It is often just as fast to use the Topaz ReMask plug in with PS or PSE. And this will probably be better than what CO could provide for quite a long while.
Hm, didn't know about that plugin. It looks a-ok, but I'd like to see this feature in C1 😊. Thank god I don't have to touch PS in my images.
Me too. I'd be equally happy if CO could accept plug-ins like this.0 -
[quote="TimB64" wrote:
Should have bought a Pentax 😂
Pentax bodies are precisely no better whatsoever at high ISO.0 -
[quote="Keith Reeder" wrote:
[quote="TimB64" wrote:
Should have bought a Pentax 😂
Pentax bodies are precisely no better whatsoever at high ISO.
I'm not the one with "problematic" shadows.0 -
I must say I have very good experience with the exposure warning Tool and then adjust with the Highlight/Shadow Tool (almost a standard procedure for the kind of subjects you show as inserted image), but I can definetely also see the advantages of having the possibility to turn the warning marking area into a layer. Hope it will show up in a future update.
br
Per Ulrik0
Post is closed for comments.
Comments
14 comments