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Lens Cast File - Doesn't show up until a restart

Victor Bellehumeur
I have the latest version of C1 Pro and I cannot get the lens cast file to initially show up. The drop down dialog doesn't show my file. I have to quit C1, start up again and then finally it shows up. Is this a Bug?? Am I doing something wrong? It is a real inconvenience to constantly have to quit the program and this is the ONLY program that will fix lens cast.
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4 comments

Date Votes
  • David Preutz
    Here's a method I received from someone, that I think might possibly avoid using CaptureOne at all - all done through p/shop - joy. I haven't tested it fully yet. In fact, I think I'll get the sliding back out this morning to put it through it's paces & test out this way of processing:-..........

    Process capture. Process LCC shot with the same settings (white balance, icc profile). Open capture in PS, add the LCC shot on a second layer. Invert second layer with the LCC shot and set layer mode to "overlay".

    edit: sorry, forgot about the 50% grey... so...
    1st layer: capture
    2nd layer: create new, mode "overlay", select "fill with 50% grey"
    3rd layer: LCC shot, set mode to color
    4th layer: merge 2 and 3, invert, set to "overlay" and delete or turn off layer 2 +3

    Without the 50% grey vignetting is corrected as well.
    With the 50% grey just the color cast is corrected.
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  • thowi
    i've noticed missing lcc files, too. but I cannot reproduce the cirumstances when/why c1 does not find the folder clearly.
    instead of restart of the application just try to click on another image. here - for some reason - the lcc files then will appear in the list.
    in addition i recently created a session with some standard lcc files. after opening this session and then switch to other sessions the lcc files are always there.
    just workarounds...

    as to the colour cast correction in photoshop quoted above... that was orginally my post. but it was just a hint how to do it in photoshop; it's not from "someone that avoids using capture one at all", the contrary ... just posted it beacause some else was asking for 😊
    using the method without 50% grey one has to check increase/decrease of overall brightness. the "without" method works best when the lcc-shots are not too bright. actually they are perfect for this method, when they have exactly a mid grey in the brightest area. but on the other hand for a good colour cast correction this would be too dark. so it's most accurate to correct colour cast (solely) first and then correct vignetting in a second step.
    i correct vignetting using a second tif of the original capture pushed to the right exposure value in c1 and then i take the processed lcc shot in this ev corrected tif as a mask in photoshop. this way you correct exactly the light fall off as represented in the lcc shot - very useful if the capture was taken with movements as in this case the fall off adjustment in c1 does not work (of course not as the light fall off adjustment in c1 necessarily refers to a centered circle).
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  • Victor Bellehumeur
    Thomas,

    Thank you for the work arounds...... this really is a PITA! I shoot an Alpa with a 35 mm Digitar and, of course, lens cast is an issue.

    I also tried your PS method which is very interesting. I followed the steps in the post above yours but still had to do an overall color balance as my image turned out to be a little too warm. Still, though, this is very encouraging..... thanks for your help.

    Now if only PhaseOne would fix this issue....
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  • thowi
    [quote="Victor" wrote:
    still had to do an overall color balance as my image turned out to be a little too warm.
    yes, it's the same with the 47xl digitar. colours are weird sometimes.
    try this: pick white balance in the center of the lcc shot. copy white balance to the capture.
    or try to adjust the white balance visually in the yellow part of the capture and copy this wb to the lcc shot. as long as capture and lcc shot will have the same wb it will work. note: the entire workflow applies better to lcc shots taken right after/before the actual shot; does not apply that accurate to stock lcc shots... or, in this case you have to match the different white balances "hand made".
    i prefer to shoot the lcc's in the actual scene; i find it more accurate than stock lccs (though even stock lcc's work quite well to some extend in many cases).
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